PERSONAL EQUIPMENT
1. Skis
Previously, all skis, including cross-country skis, were made of wood. Cross-country skis differed from cross-country skis only in width (the wider the ski, the easier it was to follow trails). Wooden skis often broke, so on independent routes, it was necessary to take one or even two spare skis—"manyuni"—with you.
In the middle of the last century, wooden skis with metal edges appeared. They were more durable and allowed for confident skiing on hard-packed snow. Very good skis of this class—the Beskids—were produced in Moldova. For many decades, they were the best choice for touring skiers.
Nowadays, the world has switched to plastic, and while simple, wide wooden "tourist" skis from the 1980s can still be found in warehouses (or maybe even in stores?), you'll likely never see Beskid-type skis—wooden ones with metal edges—in your lifetime. However, any reputable store has a huge selection of a wide variety of plastic models. So how do you find the perfect pair for your first trips?
Volumes of dissertations have been devoted to advice on choosing the optimal skis for a particular style of skiing. It's nearly impossible for a beginner to understand these intricacies, and it's unnecessary. It's best to seek help from those who are introducing you to ski touring. They'll likely recommend skis similar to their own. And that's the right decision—on a trip, it's highly recommended that the entire group use identical skis (and the same type of bindings). In this case, the repair kit will be smaller and lighter, and easier to assemble. When trail-blazing, it's convenient to have all the skis the same width. Finally, wooden and plastic skis often behave very differently. For example, wooden skis can climb, while plastic ones hopelessly slide back down. Or, conversely, plastic skis can ski quite well, while wooden ones stick. If a group includes different types of skis, their disadvantages will be combined, while their advantages will be subtracted...
Norwegian HAGAN military skis. HAGAN are nearly indestructible plastic skis with a metal edge and a wooden insert in the last. There's a hole in the tip for a rope—very practical! The ski width at the tip is 10 cm, under the last 8 cm (a 10x9 would be better for touring). A pair weighs about 4 kg (a bit much, but reliability comes at a price). A significant drawback of HAGAN skis is the lack of serrations and longitudinal grooves. Without a groove, skis are difficult to navigate on roads, and even on virgin snow, they tend to drift. The lack of grooves is corrected with wax. Every morning, the skis are warmed by the fire and waxed according to the weather and expected terrain. Depending on the snow conditions, wax allows for comfortable skiing for several hours. On steep climbs, where wax doesn't help, the skis are wrapped from the tip to the bindings with parachute strap (preferably folded in half and stitched).
2. Cable Bindings
Cable bindings allow you to hike in any footwear, including overshoes, while still maintaining good control of your skis. All cable bindings are easily repairable. There's practically no alternative to them for serious ski touring.
For the men's skis, we used two pairs of Kharkiv cable bindings. Only the wide cheek of each pair was used. Aluminum plates cut from an old kayak rudder were placed under the bindings. The outer edge of the cheek was attached to the plate with a rivet. This has proven to be a successful solution—almost all of these bindings still function flawlessly. (On one pair of skis without a backing plate, the cheeks broke three times in the first season alone.)
All the cables from the "extra" bindings are used as spares. For the men's half of the group, the cables had to be extended. To do this, we cut up the original wire and extended it with bicycle spokes (the spokes were used, by the way ;-). At first, we doubted the spokes' reliability, but three years of use have convinced us otherwise. To prevent the spoke ends from bending under load and snagging, they need to be wrapped with electrical tape. The tape wears off over time and needs to be replaced once or twice a season.
For women's skis, there's no need to modify the bindings; the stock ones can be used.
A common drawback of Kharkiv bindings is the sharp edges of the strap-inserting holes, which quickly cut through the strap, especially with aggressive skiing. Therefore, before installing the bindings, we carefully filed all the edges and sealed them with two layers of epoxy. The epoxy peeled off after a few days, so we need to come up with something better.
The cable tension greatly affects the rate of strap wear: the higher the tension, the faster the strap wears. For hiking, a minimal tension (30-40 kg) is sufficient. Properly adjusted cheek pads allow for confident ski control, including on downhill runs, and the durability of the bindings is significantly improved. In any case, when hiking, it's essential to have extra webbing to replace worn straps. Thick webbing is recommended; thin webbing can be sewn in two layers on a sewing machine.
Novosibirsk cable bindings have recently become available in Moscow. They are much stronger than those from Kharkiv, made of higher-quality metal, and are available in three sizes. There's no need to extend the cable or reinforce the cheek pads—simply choose the correct size binding. For men's skis, choose a size 3 binding, for women's, a size 2, and for children, a size 1.
3. Ski Strap
Climbing a serious hill on plastic skis is a real pain. If the hill is steep, no amount of wax will help. To combat kickback, you can wrap the ski with a strap; it's a kind of budget-friendly alternative to skins. We used double-stitched parachute tape. A 5-meter piece is more than enough for a strap from the tip to the bindings. Obviously, the ski won't slide forward with the strap attached, so wrapping the skis only makes sense before a really long climb. Putting the strap on and off takes about fifteen minutes, but it's worth the time. The strap saves a lot of effort and time, not to mention the wax (which still needs to be applied).
4. Overshoes (bottom - overshoe, top - fabric)
"Proper" overshoes for ski touring consist of a rubber overshoe with a fabric "tube" sewn onto it, reaching up to the knee. The fabric should be at least slightly breathable, otherwise the foot and boot will quickly become damp. In very cold weather (-30°C and below), it's advisable to insert an undershoe into the overshoe—something like a short sock made of durable, thick fabric that fits over the boot.
In factory-made overshoes, the tube is significantly narrower than the overshoe. A zipper is sewn into the back of the overshoe for putting it on.
The main drawback of factory-made overshoes is that the overshoe usually fits the boot very poorly. There's almost always an empty space at the toe of the overshoe. This isn't a big deal on skis, but when hiking, especially on rocks, it can be a real problem.
To prevent the overshoe from falling off while walking, sew two loops to the center of the overshoe, one on the right and one on the left, and duplicate the standard fastener with a 2-2.5 m long ribbon. The center of the ribbon is sewn to the overshoe near the heel. The ribbon is passed through the loops (resembling a crampon fastening), then wrapped around the leg several times and tied just below the knee. When properly wrapped, the ribbon secures the overshoe to the boot, preventing it from slipping off.
5. Boots
With good overshoes (with rubber soles), the requirements for boots are significantly lower. We hiked in the Urals in regular, cheap "work boots" (in 2007, they cost 300 rubles). Despite temperatures down to -30°C, our feet didn't freeze. It's perfectly fine to hike in regular ski boots. On the contrary, insulated boots are not recommended for multi-day hikes, as they are nearly impossible to dry (and they will definitely get wet—if not on the first day, then on the third). At a pinch, boots with a removable warm liner are acceptable.
Regardless of the type of boots, they should be unlaced and straightened before bed to make them easier to put on in the morning, even if they are cold.
6. Drying Boots by the Fire
In the history of human civilization, there has never been a case where a novice hiker voluntarily refused to dry their boots by the fire, no matter what arguments the guide offered. On the other hand, there's not a single case in history where, despite regularly drying their boots, a novice kept them intact for even a month.
No matter how you assess the likelihood of boot damage, if the worst happens and they burn, it will not only seriously disrupt your hiking plans but could also be fatal for their owner. Therefore, while I recognize the futility of this idea, I'll nevertheless offer some considerations on this matter.
On a ski trip, there are two types of gear: wet and burnt. While wet gear is still somewhat manageable, burnt boots are only good for the road to the cemetery, where a few extra frostbitten toes won't make a difference anyway. A boot doesn't necessarily have to burn completely—it's enough for the sole to peel slightly, or for the leather to lose elasticity from overheating. Even if such a boot doesn't fall apart, it will immediately begin to chafe. Instead of 20 km a day, a participant will only be able to walk five, at most, with considerable suffering and problems. Incidentally, just to reach a blister hidden under layers of socks, pants, boots, and overshoes, the group will need to organize a special, extended rest stop. Treating a blister in 10 minutes is unlikely (especially since the person with the blister is usually the last one to leave), and to stop for longer, you'll have to get out your down jackets and bundle up.
Of course, all this is nothing new for beginners, and they always place their shoes a safe distance from the fire. So why does it inevitably burn? The fact is, a fire is never a solid object. It constantly changes its brightness and shape depending on the amount of firewood added, the degree of combustion of the logs, and the wind direction. Therefore, the optimal drying distance is constantly changing. Any closer and your boots will overheat and burn; any further and they won't dry even after a month. At the ideal distance from the fire, boot drying takes at least an hour. During this time, the person drying the boots should be solely focused on this process and nothing else—ideally, holding the boots in their hands. If the group is willing to spare the participant all other chores for this entire time and is confident they won't be distracted by eating cake or anything else, go for it! Just keep in mind that even a moment of relaxation can be very costly for you and your boots (see above).
So, you ask, is there really no chance? Of course there is! In fact, drying boots on a ski trip is possible and even necessary. This isn't done over a fire, however, and drying equipment should be arranged in advance, before the hike.
The optimal and safest drying method is to put wet boots on over dry, absorbent socks and walk around a bit (sometimes stuffing newspapers into shoes is an alternative). Interestingly, quick-drying socks with the necessary properties have been known for over a hundred years, and they are simply called foot wraps. Unlike real socks, foot wraps can be evaporated over a fire in a couple of minutes, and if they do burn, it won't have fatal consequences. After drying the foot wraps, the entire process is repeated. Two or three iterations, and the boots will be as dry as they should be. Of course, some moisture will still remain in the boots after this drying process, but it will be just a residue that won't wet your walking socks or interfere with comfort.
Another relatively safe drying method is to place your boots in your sleeping bag overnight (for example, between two layers of a double-layer sleeping bag). Personally, I consider this method unhygienic. Furthermore, boots don't dry in the sleeping bag; they merely maintain a positive temperature, making them relatively easy to put on in the morning.
If you're camping in a tent with a stove, it's much more efficient to leave your boots near the stove instead of placing them in your sleeping bag. Unlike a campfire, the stove won't wander around the tent at night and attack your boots.
Obviously, the best place to dry boots (and not just boots) is at the top of the tent. Boots are usually placed on firewood prepared for the night. The person in charge of the stove periodically turns the boots over and swaps them for optimal drying.
7. Down Jacket
This is a must-have item on a ski trip. While you don't wear a down jacket, you put it on immediately at any stop: a short rest stop, at camp, in the morning after getting up, etc. Sometimes you even have to wear a down jacket during the day—for example, if there's a strong, cold wind. On short trips with predictable weather, a warm sweater (vest) and a nylon windproof suit can sometimes get by, but for a serious winter hike, a down jacket is a must! It's best to choose a down jacket with synthetic insulation rather than natural down, as it's much more tolerant of possible moisture.
8. Windproof Mask
A "robber's mask" is very convenient—a thin fleece sock with eye slits. It's sold at military supply stores, hunting stores, and other places, and costs next to nothing. You can even sew one yourself ;-) It's important to choose the thinnest fabric possible, otherwise the mask will be too hot. And don't forget to remove your mask when entering populated areas, stores, and banks...
9. Walking and sleeping clothes
The requirements for this gear are standard. It's important that all items either perform acceptably when wet or can be easily dried over a fire. If you don't have suitable clothing, you can easily and almost freely "modify" existing wool (preferably fleece) sweatpants by sewing on pieces of thin fleece to protect the knees and lower back, lengthening the sleeves, etc.
If the sweatpants aren't long enough and could slip out of the pants when you lean forward, it's useful to add a "skirt" of thin fleece underneath to protect your lower back (the skirt should have a slit in the front!). Sewing a 20cm wide strip of fleece to a jacket is much easier than, for example, making shorts out of fleece, and your lower back and other vital organs will be even better protected.
When choosing clothing, it's crucial to ensure that even with maximum insulation, layers worn over each other don't constrict your extremities. Constrictive clothing that restricts circulation is a surefire way to frostbite. Sleeping in ultra-modern but overly tight thermal underwear (if it's a size too small, for example) will likely be much less comfortable than in regular, loose cotton tights. (However, these tights should be perfectly dry by the time you climb into your sleeping bag. Dryness is no less important for thermal underwear, but unlike cotton, it dries much faster directly on the skin.)
10. Socks, mittens,...
Personally, I usually take at least 4-5 pairs of mittens and socks on a ski trip.
Walking socks are selected based on the expected conditions of the route. A cotton sock is more comfortable on the foot, while a single wool sock on top (if overshoes are present) is usually sufficient. Since walking socks get wet and tear, it's advisable to have at least two sets of socks for movement.
Sleeping socks should always be perfectly clean and dry, so sleeping socks should not be used while moving. If you weren't able to dry your walking socks the night before, you'll have to warm them up by the fire and put them on while still damp in the morning. Then, remove your dry sleeping socks and put them in your backpack until the next night.
The choice of optimal gloves is often the subject of much debate.
For warming your hands by the fire, tying shoelaces, and other delicate work, I think regular knitted work gloves are ideal. You can also wear them in your sleeping bag at night. These gloves are practically inexpensive, both in terms of size and weight, so you can keep a spare pair and change them every few days, for example, by burning the old ones in the fire after each kitchen shift.
Thin wool gloves are much warmer than cotton ones, but they are less durable and take much longer to dry. Even more comfortable are warm gloves made of modern fleece-like materials. They are just as warm, but more durable and better suited for delicate work. Unfortunately, all synthetic materials are fire-resistant, so you'll have to dry them on yourself rather than by the fire.
Special winter double-layer gloves made of insulated material with a durable outer coating are both warmer and more durable than single-layer gloves. These gloves are comfortable in almost any conditions (with the exception of strong winds). However, they shouldn't be dried near a fire. Furthermore, intense physical activity will quickly tear these gloves, so you should either protect them somehow or always bring a spare pair.
For serious hikes in constant frost, thick, insulated mittens made of durable, waterproof fabric are indispensable. Heavy insulation ensures subzero temperatures outside, preventing snow from melting and preventing dampness. However, delicate tasks (such as starting a fire with a match) are difficult to perform with these gloves, and after removing the gloves, your unprotected hands will quickly freeze. Furthermore, once wet, these mittens are almost impossible to dry. Therefore, even if you have these mittens, you should bring a spare pair on your hike.
Canvas mittens are very convenient for various campfire needs. They can be used for sawing and breaking prickly spruce branches (wool, cotton, and even fleece gloves would quickly tear), and they dry easily by the fire. For all such work, oversleeves are worn over any thin gloves, protecting them from mechanical damage and/or snow. A major drawback of store-bought oversleeves is that they are too small (difficult to fit over warm mittens or gloves), and their shafts are much shorter than necessary, leaving the joint between the mitten and sleeve unprotected.
My experience shows that at temperatures down to -20 degrees Celsius, a pair of dry knit gloves and cotton oversleeves provides near-perfect comfort. However, if such mittens or gloves get wet (which is especially common during thaws), even a light wind can cause frostbite on your hands in just a few minutes. Therefore, regardless of the expected temperature, you won't be able to get by with just cotton mittens and gloves on a hike (or you'll need to have three extra gloves).
In strong winds, large, windproof nylon uppers with long shafts and tucked-in or insertable fleece-like mittens are ideal. These mittens can be worn over regular gloves if needed. Removable inserts allow you to adjust the desired level of insulation, and two separate mittens are easier to dry than one thick mitten. Unfortunately, these mittens are almost impossible to find commercially; you'll have to sew them yourself. To reduce slippage and make these nylon mittens suitable for use as fire mittens, a piece of canvas shaped like your palm is sewn over the nylon.
So, how many and what kind of gloves should you take on a ski trip? It's difficult to give a definitive answer to this question; it all depends on the hiking conditions, your tastes, and your personal experience. My advice is to take several different pairs of boots on a hike and swap them out depending on the conditions.
11. Flashlight
It's no longer practical to use incandescent flashlights; it's better to buy an LED headlamp. For everyday use (living in a tent or camping), a small 5-LED flashlight is best, but these have almost disappeared from stores lately. Among the more modern headlamps with a large round "light" (approximately 7 x 7 x 5 cm), it's better to choose one with more LEDs. All LED headlamps are very sensitive to batteries, but the ability to get a more powerful beam can be very useful if needed.
If you have a choice, it's better to get a flashlight with yellow LEDs, even if it seems less bright. White, and especially blue, light is unpleasant for the eyes, and it is highly scattered by water vapor. With a flashlight with white and blue LEDs, you won't be able to peer into a boiling pot or light your way in fog. Ideally, a flashlight should have three modes: a low beam (dim) for efficient lighting around camp or in a tent, a high beam (bright) for movement, and a flashing mode for signals. Having more modes is a huge inconvenience, as switching between them requires pressing a single button. To turn a multi-mode flashlight on or off, you'll have to press that button until you're blue in the face.
Keep in mind that in cold weather, the internal resistance of any battery increases, and the current they deliver decreases. This is another reason to ditch flashlights with powerful bulbs in favor of LEDs. Incidentally, don't rush to throw away a dead battery in the cold—it may last a little longer when warm. However, storing spare batteries, and especially rechargeable batteries, in warm places is definitely not a good idea, as their self-discharge current is significantly lower in cold weather, and they will retain their capacity better.
12. Sunglasses
If you're going on a ski trip in December in the overcast Moscow region (or further north), you can get by without sunglasses. Otherwise, it's better to have them. Sunglasses are absolutely essential if the route is at altitudes of 1,000 meters or more.
There are many models of sunglasses. Two-dollar "gas welder's goggles" from a workwear store are often more reliable and comfortable than professional "ski goggles" for $200. It's important to avoid plastic knockoffs—they're dark in appearance but still allow UV light through—which is much worse than going without sunglasses at all. Such counterfeits are easy to come across in underground passages and supermarkets. Therefore, buy sunglasses either from professional travel stores or from "workwear" stores—this provides an almost 100% guarantee of genuine protection.
Choosing the most suitable model among the "right" UV-protective sunglasses is a matter of habit and taste. I recommend paying attention to the material, ventilation, and protection for the areas around your eyes. It's difficult to give any more specific advice—you'll likely only be able to choose the most suitable glasses after your first long hike, when the shortcomings of the model you used on that hike become clear.
13. Avalanche tape
If you're in an avalanche-prone area, it's essential. Numerous articles have been written about making and marking avalanche tape, so I won't repeat them here. I just want to point out to beginners: it's not enough to just take the right avalanche tape with you; you also need to remember to use it promptly in any even slightly dangerous areas!
14. Smart kit
A winter emergency is a special case: toothpaste, etc., will freeze in the cold, so keep this in mind. Secondly, you won't always have water... Therefore, you can bring one soap per group; that's enough for the entire hike. Toothpaste can be warmed up in warm water for each person, or replaced with special chewing gum. And so on.
15. KLMN, matches
Topic: Winter Expedition 2026 to Dyatlov Pass along the route of the Dyatlov group. (Read 1102 times)